Archive for October, 2006

Tequila, Tattoos and Tamil Tigers

October 29, 2006

So, as I mentioned in a previous post, on Monday Gemma and I celebrated Eid at the airport bar and pool, where we ate steak, drank G&Ts and met a medley of expat characters all with the same idea for celebrating Eid as far out of Male’ as you can get for free (not v far at all). These included a bunch of English WAGs of the Maldivian Air Taxi pilots (think tanned, blond and bikini-ed, the footballers’ wives equivalent of the Maldives?) and a cool Danish guy called Soren who runs an import business in Male’ and therefore is The Man In The Know for getting alcohol and pork to needy expats, who regaled us with the history of Denmark (a lot more interesting than you’d think…) and took me for a spin on the back of his motorbike, yay! He then invited Gemma and I back to his amazing apartment with views across half of Male’, got us rolling drunk and made us listen to Danish music. I’m pretty sure the evening included large quantities of tequila and some vigorous dancing around the apartment to aforementioned music (which turned out to be surprisingly good), including some amazing dance poses from Gem (The Gecko, the Leg Guitar…) ;)

I, of course, was sophistication itself…

I’ve not been so out of breath in a long time.

Not surprisingly then, Tuesday started with a killer hangover… Bit of a schoolboy error since Tuesday also heralded the start of our trip to Summer Island involving a lengthy boat ride to the north end of North Male’ Atoll across choppy open sea. Nice. In fact the worst was over by the time we dragged ourselves out of bed and onto the speedboat late afternoon, and any remaining cobwebs were fast blown away as we bounced and jarred across the waves against a stormy backdrop and a full 180 degree rainbow. Literally breathtaking.


Summer Island Village was a great place to chill for a couple of days – very cheap and cheerful – think the Butlins of the Maldives. Our all-in package included simple-but-nice accommodation with a sea view, great food from the buffet and dubious drinks from the bar, including the cocktail of the day which was rough as (think undiluted orange squash and gin). Less landscaped than other resorts we’ve been to, the wildlife was amazing – big fruit bats, green parrots, lizards, a moray eel or two skulking along the shoreline, a couple of local herons fishing from the beach, a small reef shark on the hunt amongst the shoals of tiny fish lining the shore causing flurries of silver fish to jump from the water when he got lucky and best of all, a couple of massive manta rays over a metre in diameter drifting majestically around the jetty after sunset. The wildlife-spotting extended to our fellow guests… We felt we ought to be sporting full body tattoos, tight black jeans and mullets to fit with the 80’s atmosphere of the resort and mainly German guests, but drowned our sorrows at being up-to-date 21st century girls from good old Blighty with a fair few Long Island Iced Teas (not free, but definitely drinkable), as befitted being on a tropical island. Before you get too green-eyed, let me add that it was grey, overcast and rainy every single day – the only day the sun came out was the morning we left – although not being hot and sticky for once was kinda refreshing.

Where was Andy in all this, I hear you ask? Well at the last minute he’d absconded to Sri Lanka for the week with a rather lovely Maldivian girl that we work with – good skills – where he wowed her family, visited the zoo and got detained by the Sri Lankan army in the middle of the countryside suspicious of possible links with the Tamil Tigers… He’s back safe and sound now and what with Gemma’s trip to Thinadhoo last week and Andy’s absence this week, it’s great to have the whole crew back together again! Go team NHS!

Caption Competition

October 23, 2006

Check out the photos page for some shots Gemma took in Thinadhoo last week. There’s some crackers of the workshops – see the immense excitement on the faces of the participants…!

Eid Mubarak!

October 23, 2006

So, it’s Eid today which means the end of Ramazan, and back to normal eating for the locals so cafes and restaurants are gonna be open during the day from tomorrow, hurrah! To celebrate, Gemma and I have taken ourselves off for a bit of R&R at the airport island hotel, a 20min boat ride from Male’, and so I’m sitting at the bar by the pool typing this before a swim and maybe a G&T or two…

Ear update – you’ll be glad to know I can nearly hear properly again! It’s all quite exciting, not to mention a bit noisy…

“It is Musa”

October 17, 2006

Musa, our man in the Maldives, deserves a posting all of his very own. (See, this post has nothing at all to do with my ear…) Musa comes with the apartment as the guy to call when stuff doesn’t work. He doesn’t actually fix anything himself, but seems to be in charge of fixing a time to call round (sample conversation below…) and then taking on more of a ‘supervisory’ role to the guy who actually fixes stuff. This involves a lot of lurking, both inside the flat and out (in the lift, outside the front door, in the street…). He’s very smiley whilst lurking though which makes up for the lurking J

Things fixed in the month we’ve been in this apartment so far: the toilet, the oven, the kitchen tap, the shower, the washing machine. ‘Fixing’ involves unscrewing a lot of stuff, sticking a screwdriver into a plughole or two, borrowing some selotape, and leaving the job to another day whilst Musa and assistant go off to buy spare parts. In person, Musa’s English seems quite good, involves a lot of smiling and nodding, and we generally understand each other fine. However, his preferred method of communication is by phone, and here his English seems to desert him and since my Dhivehi is non-existent, conversations tend to go as follows…

*Ring Ring*

Hello?

“It is Musa” Hi Musa

“Skfjp wujslkd gjslkjg?”

Hello?

“It is Musa”

Hi Musa

“Slk dhgwpg lasdgjslfj 5.30?”

Umm…5.30? You’re coming round at 5.30? Fraid we’re not in at 5.30…

“X;;sjdg; lsdf;ks;l ads;lfk 5.30.”

No, we won’t be in at 5.30.

“Afkjfl skdjslkhga 5.30 lksdfj; ssldg.”

No, we’re out this evening

“Slkdj g;skjgf;s df;lskf 5.30.”

(spoken slowly) No, 5.30 is not good for us

“;sld;alkfkajflkasjdkf 5.30.”

(sigh) OK then, 5.30 it is…

*Click *

Not that it matters much anyhow, since Musa-and-assistant will inevitably then arrive, smiling broadly, closer to 9pm than 5.30.

Last time he was round when Andy was in on his own, he asked Andy where his “wives” were. That’s me and Gemma that is… ;)

“Don’t think so much”

October 15, 2006

Initially thought it was maybe the tail end of the previous ear infection and lack of sleep that was making me feeling a bit ming so I stayed at home from work today and thought I’d just take it easy. But the pain in my ear got worse and worse and worse so I called a friend for moral support who took me to see their local Chinese doctor. Now, I have every confidence that Chinese herbal medicine is really good for some stuff, but it is most definitely not good for ear infections. The guy took a look in my ear, said it definitely wasn’t infected and diagnosed instead that I was thinking too much and all I needed to do was to stop thinking so much and that this would help. Now, no offence but at this stage since I’M FINDING IT DIFFICULT TO THINK ABOUT ANYTHING APART FROM THE PAIN IN THE SIDE OF MY HEAD I don’t find this a very enlightening diagnosis. So going with my first choice of healthcare, I headed back to the ADK hospital where the doctor said my previous middle ear infection is well on its way to being better but now I’ve developed an outer ear infection (quite obvious apparently, Mr Chinese Herbalist) which is why I have cracking earache and toothache, the entire side of my face canes and I can’t move my jaw. Cue more antibiotics and pain-killers. I now need a rota for the amount of medicine I’m taking; 2 antibiotic ear drops 4 times a day; 1 painkiller twice a day; 1 antacid once a day apparently to counteract the irritant effects of the painkiller (nice); 3 spoons of Calpol-like liquid once a day; 2 nasal drops 3 times a day; one steam inhalation 3 times a day. Plus I’ve still got to finish the course of antibiotics for the previous middle ear infection which is 1 tablet twice a day… Makes me tired just thinking about it. Promise I’ll stop moaning about my ear on this blog at some point soon, but at the moment it’s all I can think about and I’m in pain and feeling very miserable and very sorry for myself…

Bring on the violins

October 15, 2006

If you were looking out across the blue skies of the Maldivian capital today you might just spot a small black, thunderous cloud hovering over central Male’. It would be my very own little black mood that I’m currently sitting under, cos I’ve been up half the night with ear-ache and have reluctantly just cancelled my flight down to Thinadhoo for today. Guess it’s back to the doctor then… I’m very very fed up. 9 days of deafness and now a large amount of pain inside my head which makes it very difficult to think about anything else. Anyone got anything to cheer me up? Sympathy? Jokes? Anna Spanna, surely I can count on you…?! Sob sob sob…

The drugs don’t work

October 11, 2006

Well the drugs don’t work as fast as I wish they would – I’m still living in my own little deaf-as-a-post bubble (which incidentally is really great for making a professional impression in my meetings today talking about Special Needs Education with people in the Ministry of Education and in a school with a class for children with hearing diabilities…great…) so the doctor has said no flying to Thinadhoo island (yep, the squarest island in the world if you take a look at the photo I’ve posted) tomorrow. Boo! This is the latest in a long and growing line of sagas associated with this ill-fated trip, but Gem is bravely heading south with the rest of the team and I hope to be able to join them on Sunday if I’m good to fly by then…

By the way, well impressed with the ADK hospital – 4 quid for an immediate appointment with a specialist ENT doctor which includes a free follow-up within 5 days, and then 6 pounds for a multitude of decongestants and antibiotics and weird inhalant capsules which stink out our apartment and some strangely addictive Calpol-type liquid whose purpose I’m slightly unsure of but it’s well tasty…

Andy-the-cockroach-killer strikes again – hurray for boys

October 9, 2006

Until this morning, we’d only seen baby cockroaches in the kitchen of our apartment, which don’t bother me much beyond the initial surprise factor. This morning was different…

From the comfort of her bed, Gemma turned on her A/C unit, little expecting that a monster cockroach would crawl out from it… Cue hopping around on tiptoes and squarking from Gemma and then me, whilst cool, calm Andy fetched the tools of his trade; bucket, mop, broom… Opening all the windows in preparation for disposal after the deed, he then balanced precariously on a chair, and directed by us girls (standing well outside the room and peering round the doorframe) who could see its wiggling antennae poking out, battered the monster from the top of the aircon unit to the floor where after a chase round and round the room it was vanquished. Hurrah!

Plan for this afternoon – hard core flat cleaning a la Kim & Aggie…

Kiki Reef

October 9, 2006

Open water diving on Friday was stunning – I had thought the lagoon dives were great but this was something else altogether! The dive boat took us to Kiki Reef, where we dived to a depth of about 12m along one edge of a reef wall, coral stretching up towards the surface above and dropping away into the deep blue below. I’ve never seen so many fish – shoals of tiny orange ones, biiiig yellow stripy ones (“Oriental Sweet lips”) tucked in under overhangs, and out away from the reef in the current, millions of small black velvety fish and a scattering of large silvery tuna. We saw several big scary fat moray eels thicker that your arm guarding their coral holes, teeth bared (tho’ not sure an eel has the ability to make any other facial expression…), and breath-taking coral fans and structures. I want to finish the Open Water course before leaving the Maldives so I can do some amazing-sounding Adventure dives – deep dives, wrecks, underwater photography, fish identification…

Sadly, as we ascended towards the end of the dive I had some problems equalising my ears, in particular the right one which wouldn’t pop. It got more blocked and more painful over the weekend, until a trip to ADK Hospital yesterday revealed I’ve given myself an ear infection, so I’m now on antibiotics and painkillers and besides being completely deaf in my right ear, I also can’t go diving for at least another week which is really really frustrating. Guess I’ll have to concentrate of doing all the theory and wait for this infection to clear… Just hoping it’s OK to fly by Thursday when Gemma and I are heading down to Thinadhoo for a week, an island in one of the southern-most Atolls, to run some Community-based Rehabilitation workshops…

Ladies what lunch

October 4, 2006

Gemma and I were invited to a weekly expat women’s dinner last night at one of the local restaurants in Male’ (serving an intriguing Indian/Chinese/Maldivian melange – though at less than 2 quid for great Indian food and just minutes from our apartment it’s definitely my kind of place and we’ve noted their number for future takeaways…mmmm the heights of laziness in an island this small…). We are now ladies who lunch!! All that was missing was a G&T or two… for that we’ll have to wait until Thursday evening (the new Friday night out since the weekend is Friday and Saturday here) for a trip over the water to Hulhule Island where the airport is, to visit the airport hotel with the only bar in the vicinity – the Maldives being 100% Islamic means you can only find alcohol on tourist islands and at the airport bar, and if you’re Maldivian, you won’t get served at all… Turns out the person who invited us – someone from Handicap International who works quite closely with Care Society’s CBR projects – worked at CRP in Bangladesh where I was on my Gap Year – we must have missed each other by a matter of weeks back in 2000 and know all the same people – Pia, Shanu… – it’s a small world! Another of the ladies there (with a fab broad Yorkshire accent – made us feel right at home after a plethora of Maldivian, Aussie and American accents over the last few weeks) lives just down the road form Gemma in the UK… Bizarre to have connections with at least 2 out of the 8 women from several different nationalities there….