After 2 weeks of thorough briefing at Tearfund HQ just outside London on the intricacies of the Liberia Programme, on how to approach checkpoints and how to use a VHF radio, I arrived in Monrovia late on Wednesday.
On recommendation from the Deputy Programme Director whom I met as she was passing through Tearfund HQ for a conference, in my luggage were both wellie boots (flowery Laura Ashley at Homebase, no less) and a Little Black Dress, items I never thought I’d be taking to a post-conflict African nation. And despite the chaos of Monrovia Airport – a cacophony of noise, officials waving papers around and stamping anything that moved, the most overloaded luggage conveyer belt you’ve ever seen with enormous plastic-bound bags and boxes rolling off onto toes and being chucked back on, the sweaty heat and crush of bodies - both my bags arrived in one piece (2 pieces?) so I won’t have to wear wellies to a formal event, or the LBD to wade through swamps in the rainy season…
It’s great being in West Africa again, although I think it’s going to take me some time to get used to the humidity and the heat – the generator goes off at midnight and comes on again at 6am, so the ceiling fans don’t work between those times and it’s like lying on a damp mattress in a sauna – nice.
The Tearfund compound is a little way out of central Monrovia, within a larger secure compound in which a number of aid agencies and Liberian NGOs are based, including AEL (Tearfund’s main partner in Liberia), Samaritan’s Purse, some missionary organisations, and a small hospital, school, church and clinic. The best bit is that the compound is bordered on one side by…the beach! I somehow seem to fall on my feet with my overseas travel – The Gambia, The Maldives and now Liberia all with their beautiful coastlines. However, because of the security situation we’re separated from it by the Tearfund compound fence, and it’s only safe to wander along when there are others around. The UN come here to swim, so yesterday there were a whole load of pasty German-looking guys in speedos. Will try to upload photos (of the beach, not the speedos) to the flickr site.
Security is fairly light, since there are loads of UNMIL (UN) soldiers around – I think the second largest deployment of UN troops in the world. This makes Monrovia relatively safe and gives Liberia the chance to develop and train its own police force, but the peace is fairly precarious, especially if and when UNMIL leaves.
Drove into Monrovia last night, past the port where Mercy Ships’ Africa Mercy is docked – lots of the ship staff chilling out on the quay in deckchairs watching the sunset – and along Monrovia’s strangely American-looking wide roads with their boulevard signs. It’s a funny place – many of the buildings we passed look prosperous-gone-to-seed, and the only real sign of the recent conflict are the numerous UN barracks, ubiquitous ‘no guns’ signs and the large advert boards along the roads put up by USAID or the government with messages about working together, ‘No Mob Violence’, and how to get help if you have been raped.
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I’ve got a million documents to read on security procedures, as well as how all the parts of the Liberia programme are funded, so I’ll leave it there, except to tell you the all important Cockroach Count: only 2 so far, disturbed in the kitchen in the middle of the night, ick ick but am trying to behave like a grown up. There are very few mosquitoes since it’s not yet the rainy season plus we’re on the coast. Think it might be worse when I head up to the jungly Nimba County where I’ll be permanently based in a couple of weeks time.
No call yet to wear either the Little Black Dress or the wellies…will keep you posted…